👔 Garment & Textile Workshop

Cotton — Pima

Extra-long-staple cotton (ELS, 1.4"–2.0") prized for softness, strength and luxurious drape.

Cotton — Upland

Standard short-to-medium staple cotton (0.9"–1.3") — the workhorse of global apparel.

Cotton — Sea Island

Historic ELS cotton (1.5"+ staple) once grown on the Carolina Sea Islands; today from West Indies.

Silk — Mulberry

The classic white silk from Bombyx mori moth fed exclusively on mulberry leaves.

Silk — Tussar

Wild silk in natural gold-beige tone from Antheraea silkworms feeding on oak, arjun, saal.

Silk — Muga

Golden silk unique to Assam, with natural lustre that deepens with washing.

Silk — Eri

Peace silk (ahimsa silk) allowing the moth to leave the cocoon before reeling.

Wool — Merino

Fine soft wool from Merino sheep, 17–24 micron diameter — ideal for next-to-skin garments.

Wool — Cashmere

Downy under-hair of the Cashmere goat, 14–19 micron — among the softest natural fibres.

Pashmina

Ultrafine cashmere (12–16 micron) from Changthangi goats of Ladakh/Himalayas.

Linen — Flax

Bast fibre from Linum usitatissimum, prized for crisp hand and high wet strength.

Hemp

Bast fibre from Cannabis sativa — strong, antimicrobial, UV-resistant.

Ramie

Long, silky bast fibre from China grass — shiny, resistant to bacteria, strong when wet.

Jute

Coarse bast fibre (Corchorus) — the 'golden fibre' used for burlap, gunny, sacks, geotextile.

Polyester — Filament

Continuous synthetic fibre from PET polymer — bulk workhorse of modern apparel.

Viscose Rayon

Regenerated cellulose fibre made from wood pulp — silk-like drape at cotton prices.

Lyocell (TENCEL™)

Closed-loop regenerated cellulose from eucalyptus or beech pulp.

Nylon 6

Polyamide fibre — strong, elastic, abrasion-resistant. Used in hosiery, sportswear, linings.

Spandex / Elastane / Lycra

Segmented polyurethane fibre giving 500–700% stretch.

Count — Ne (English Cotton Count)

Number of 840-yard hanks per pound. Higher Ne = finer yarn.

Count — Nm (Metric Number)

Number of 1000-metre hanks per kilogram. Used for wool, linen, blends.

Denier

Weight in grams of 9000 m of yarn — direct system. Used for silk, synthetics.

Ring-Spun Yarn

Cotton yarn twisted on ring frame — smooth, strong, fine hand. Premium method.

Open-End (Rotor) Yarn

Yarn spun via air-vortex rotor — fast, economical, bulky hand.

Mercerisation

Treatment of cotton yarn/fabric with caustic soda under tension to boost lustre, strength, dye uptake.

Weaving — Plain Weave

Simplest interlacing — each weft thread passes alternately over and under warp threads.

Weaving — Twill Weave

Weave showing diagonal rib lines from offset interlacing (2/1, 3/1, 2/2).

Weaving — Satin Weave

Float-heavy weave (4/1, 5/1, 7/1) giving smooth, lustrous face.

Weaving — Jacquard

Weave controlled by Jacquard mechanism allowing individual warp thread control → complex patterns.

Weaving — Dobby

Small geometric woven patterns (diamond, dot, floral) made by dobby mechanism.

Denim

Warp-faced 3/1 or 2/1 cotton twill with indigo-dyed warp and white weft.

Selvedge Denim

Premium shuttle-loom denim with clean, self-finished edge (the selvedge).

Chambray

Plain-weave cotton with dyed warp and white weft — looks like denim but lighter.

Poplin

Plain-weave cotton with fine warp and heavier weft, giving a subtle cross-rib.

Oxford Cloth

Basket-weave shirting (2×1 or 2×2) with textured face.

Voile

Sheer, crisp plain-weave fabric of fine cotton or polyester (60s+ count).

Muslin — Dhaka

Historic ultra-fine sheer cotton handwoven in Bengal — 'woven air'.

Khadi

Hand-spun, hand-woven cloth — symbol of India's swadeshi movement.

Handloom (Handwoven Fabric)

Fabric woven on a non-powered loom — pit loom, frame loom, backstrap.

Banarasi Silk

Luxury handloom silk from Varanasi with zari (gold/silver) brocade.

Kanjivaram Silk

Heavy mulberry-silk handloom saree from Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu.

Jamdani

Fine cotton/silk handloom with supplementary-weft discontinuous brocade.

Ikat — Pochampally

Resist-dyed weave where warp and/or weft yarns are tie-dyed before weaving.

Patola

Double-ikat silk saree from Patan, Gujarat — most complex weave in world.

Chikankari

Delicate white-on-white hand-embroidery on muslin/cotton from Lucknow.

Phulkari

Punjabi 'flower work' surface-satin embroidery in silk floss (pat) on khaddar.

Kantha

Running-stitch embroidery from Bengal, originally on layered old saris (quilting).

Zari — Real, Tested, Imitation

Metallic thread (gold, silver, gilt) wrapped over silk/cotton core used in brocade.

Gota Patti

Appliqué of metallic ribbon (gota) cut and stitched to form motifs.

Zardozi

Heavy metallic-thread embroidery using zari, sequins, beads, pearls.

Aari Work

Chain-stitch embroidery using a hooked needle (aari) on stretched fabric.

Kalamkari

Hand-painted or block-printed cotton from Andhra Pradesh, using natural dyes.

Block Printing — Bagru

Indigo + madder + iron-rust natural-dye hand block printing from Rajasthan.

Ajrakh

Complex resist-print cotton/silk with geometric indigo, madder, iron dyes.

Batik

Wax-resist dyeing — hot wax applied by canting/stamp, then dyed; wax melted out.

Knit — Jersey

Single-knit fabric with visible knit column (face) and purl (back).

Knit — Rib

Vertical rib knit (1×1, 2×2, 2×1) with high stretch.

Knit — Interlock

Double-knit with two needle beds interlocking — smooth both sides, denser than jersey.

Knit — Piqué

Textured honeycomb or waffle knit most famous as polo-shirt fabric.

Knit — French Terry

Looped-back knit — smooth face, soft unbrushed loops on reverse.

Knit — Fleece

French terry brushed on the back to raise a soft nap — warm, insulating.

Non-Woven — Spunbond

Continuous polypropylene/polyester filaments bonded thermally or chemically.

GSM (Grams per Square Metre)

Universal fabric weight measure — mass per unit area.

Petticoat (Indian Saree Petticoat)

Long A-line underskirt worn beneath a saree; anchors the pleats and pallu.

Chemise / Shimmy

Loose undergarment — full-length sleeveless slip, originally of linen or fine cotton.

Camisole

Short, strappy top ending at the waist or hip — worn as innerwear or outerwear.

Saree Blouse (Choli)

Fitted cropped top worn with a saree or lehenga — 12–15" length.

Saree

5.5–9 yd unstitched drape, worn pleated at the waist with one end (pallu) over the shoulder.

Lehenga Choli

Three-piece: long flared skirt (lehenga) + fitted blouse (choli) + scarf (dupatta).

Anarkali Suit

Long frock-style flared kameez paired with churidar or leggings.

Salwar Kameez

Tunic (kameez) + trouser (salwar) + dupatta — Punjabi-origin everyday suit.

Churidar

Tight-fitting trouser gathered at the ankle in stacked folds (like bangles).

Patiala Salwar

Extra-pleated voluminous salwar from Patiala, Punjab — falls in draped layers.

Kurti

Shorter (hip- or knee-length) casual top; the contemporary cousin of the kurta.

Dupatta

Long scarf (2–2.5 yd) worn across the chest or over the head, completing a suit.

T-shirt — Crew Neck

Round-neck short-sleeve knit top — the basic tee.

T-shirt — V-Neck

T-shirt variant with V-shaped neckline, 2–4" deep.

T-shirt — Ringer

Tee with contrasting rib binding at neck and sleeve cuff.

T-shirt — Raglan

Sleeve extending in one piece from the neckline to the underarm (diagonal shoulder seam).

T-shirt — Oversized / Drop-Shoulder

Loose-fit tee with extended body and shoulder seam dropped past shoulder point.

Tank Top / Vest

Sleeveless knit top, armhole banded or self-bound.

Polo Shirt

Short-sleeve collared knit with 2–4 button placket.

Sheath Dress

Straight-cut, knee-length dress that follows body lines from shoulder to hem.

Shift Dress

Straight-line, short (above knee), no waist shaping. Hangs from shoulders.

A-line Dress / Skirt

Fitted at waist/bust flaring outward in the shape of an 'A'.

Fit-and-Flare Dress

Bodice fits torso to waist; skirt flares wide — a romantic silhouette.

Bodycon Dress

Body-conscious, stretch-fit dress, mid-thigh to knee.

Wrap Dress

Dress that wraps across the front and ties at the waist.

Maxi Dress

Full-length dress, ankle or floor-grazing.

Mini Dress

Short dress, 4–6" above knee.

Gown — Evening / Ball

Full-length formal dress, often floor-brushing with structured bodice.

Skirt — Pencil

Straight, knee-length, narrow skirt hugging hips.

Skirt — Circle

Full-circle skirt cut from a doughnut; dramatic 360° swirl.

Skirt — Pleated

Skirt with folded pleats: knife, box, inverted, accordion, sunray.

Skirt — Godet

Triangular insert added to seams to flare the hem.

Palazzo Pants

Wide-leg, floor-length trousers with dramatic flare from the waist or hip.

Culottes

Skirt-like wide-leg trousers, mid-calf length.

Jumpsuit

One-piece garment combining top and trouser.

Romper / Playsuit

Short-sleeved, shorts-length one-piece.

Kaftan

Loose, ankle-length, long-sleeved robe from Middle East/N. Africa.

Abaya

Loose black outer-robe worn by women in many Muslim-majority cultures.

Hanbok

Traditional Korean dress — jeogori (short jacket) + chima (wraparound long skirt).

Kimono

Japanese full-length T-shape robe tied with obi sash.

Cheongsam / Qipao

Chinese body-hugging one-piece dress with mandarin collar and side slits.

Ao Dai

Vietnamese long tunic split to the waist, worn over trousers.

Crop Top

Top that ends above the navel.

Tube Top

Strapless, elasticated tube of fabric wrapping the bust.

Corset

Structured shaping garment with boning, cinching the torso.

Bustier

Strapless, fitted top ending at or above the waist.

Leggings

Tight knitted pants from waist to ankle.

Saree Fall (Fall)

Narrow strip (6–12 cm) of durable cloth stitched to saree hem inside.

Picot (Pico)

Fine rolled or serged hem finish on saree/dupatta edge — replaces raw edge.

Dhoti

Unstitched 4–5 m cotton cloth wrapped at the waist.

Kurta

Loose collarless/mandarin-collar tunic, knee-length.

Sherwani

Knee-length fitted coat worn for weddings and formal occasions.

Bandhgala (Jodhpuri Suit)

Knee-length or jacket-length 'closed-neck' Indian formal coat.

Nehru Jacket

Hip-length single-breasted jacket with mandarin collar.

Pyjama (Pajama)

Loose cotton trouser worn with kurta.

Kurta Pyjama

Set of a kurta + pyjama (or churidar).

Achkan

Knee-length formal coat similar to sherwani but slightly more fitted.

Grain Line

Direction of warp (or lengthwise) yarns in woven fabric; knit wales in knits.

Bias Cut

Pattern cut at 45° to grain — fabric drapes fluidly.

Marker / Marker Making

Master layout of pattern pieces on fabric width; maximises cloth utilisation.

Lay / Spreading

Layers of fabric stacked on the cutting table for batch-cutting.

Band Knife

Vertical blade moving at high speed — used for cutting blocks of fabric into precise shapes.

Straight Knife

Hand-held reciprocating knife for cutting fabric stacks.

Rotary Cutter

Circular blade cutter for thin lays and home sewing.

Die Cutter

Shaped steel-rule die used to punch out small shapes (collars, cuffs, bags).

Automatic Cutter (CAM)

Computer-numeric-controlled cutting machine (Gerber GTxL, Lectra Vector).

Pattern — Bodice Block / Sloper

Basic, fitted pattern for upper body — master from which styles are developed.

Dart

Stitched wedge of fabric taken out to shape flat cloth to the body curves.

Princess Seam

Curved seam running from shoulder or armhole through bust apex to waist.

Seam Allowance

Extra fabric beyond the stitch line to allow seam construction.

Notch

Small V or slit cut into the seam allowance to mark pattern-matching points.

Ease / Tolerance

Extra dimension in a pattern beyond body measurement, for movement/comfort.

Grading / Size Run

Scaling base-size pattern up and down to create the full size range.

Sample Size

Base size used for all first samples and pattern block development.

Stitch — Lockstitch (301)

Two-thread stitch formed on domestic and industrial sewing machines.

Stitch — Chainstitch (101/401)

Single-thread (101) or two-thread (401) stitch looped on underside.

Stitch — Overlock / Serger

Stitch using 2–5 threads that wraps raw edge — trims and finishes simultaneously.

Stitch — Coverstitch (602/605)

Two or three parallel top rows with chain underside — used for knit hemming.

Stitch — Flatlock (606/607)

Flat seam joining two fabric edges with threads lying flat on both sides.

Stitch — Zigzag

Needle swings side-to-side creating a Z-pattern stitch.

Stitch — Bartack

Short, wide zigzag packed into a bar — reinforces stress points.

Stitch — Buttonhole

Closely spaced zigzag forming a finished slit for a button.

Stitch — Running Stitch

Simple alternating in-out hand stitch — foundation of most hand-sewing.

Stitch — Back Stitch (Hand)

Hand stitch where needle re-enters one stitch-length back.

Stitch — Invisible Hem (Blind Stitch)

Hem stitch where the thread pick-up is invisible on the right side.

Stitch — Slip Stitch (Couture)

Hand stitch catching one fabric thread at a time — invisible on outside.

Seam — French Seam

Enclosed seam: stitch wrong sides first, trim, then stitch right sides enclosing raw edge.

Seam — Flat-Felled

Self-enclosed sturdy seam seen on jeans inseam and shirt sides.

Seam — Bound (Hong Kong)

Seam whose raw edges are bound with bias strips of thin fabric.

Seam — Welt Seam

Topstitched seam with both allowances pressed to one side.

Machine — Single-Needle Lockstitch

Standard industrial sewing machine producing lockstitch (ISO 301).

Machine — Double-Needle Lockstitch

Two-needle lockstitch for parallel rows — used on yokes, hems, seat belts.

Machine — 3/4/5-Thread Overlock

Overlock/serger machines with differential feed.

Machine — Coverstitch Top-Cover

Coverstitch with decorative top row.

Machine — Buttonhole (Eyelet / Straight)

Automated buttonhole machines.

Machine — Button Attaching

Machine that sews buttons onto garment with programmable 4/2-hole patterns.

Machine — Bartack

Dedicated bartack for rapid reinforcement stitches.

Machine — Flatlock (Kansai)

Multi-needle flat-lock machine for seam + cover in one pass.

Machine — Post-Bed

Sewing machine with raised post for 3D curved work.

Machine — Cylinder-Bed

Machine with narrow cylindrical bed — for sleeves, cuffs, tubular parts.

Machine — Feed-off-the-Arm

Specialized machine with narrow bed for lap seams — classic denim inseam.

Machine — Embroidery (Multi-Head)

Computerized multi-head machine for production embroidery.

Machine — Fusing Press

Heat press that bonds fusible interlining to garment panels.

CMT (Cut-Make-Trim)

Manufacturing model where factory only cuts, sews, trims — buyer supplies fabric & trims.

FOB (Free on Board)

Factory sources everything and delivers at buyer's export port. Higher margin for factory.

PPS (Pre-Production Sample)

Final sample approved before bulk cut.

AQL (Acceptance Quality Limit)

Statistical QC standard (ISO 2859-1) for sampling acceptable defect rate.

DHU (Defects per Hundred Units)

Shop-floor quality KPI.

Bundle System

Traditional production where panels move between operators as tied bundles.

UPS (Unit Production System)

Overhead monorail carries individual garments between stations.

Modular Manufacturing

Team-based cellular layout with operators cross-trained.

SMV (Standard Minute Value)

Time allowed to produce one unit of an operation.

Line Balancing

Assigning operations to operators to match takt time, minimising bottlenecks.

Trim — Interlining

Reinforcing layer between outer fabric and lining for structure.

Trim — Lining

Inner layer that encloses raw seams and adds slip against skin.

Trim — Zipper (YKK)

Slide fastener. Coil, metal, or moulded plastic teeth.

Trim — Button

Fastener attached via buttonhole.

Trim — Elastic

Rubber/spandex-based stretchable tape.

Sanforization

Controlled compressive shrinkage process — reduces residual shrinkage to <1%.

Stone Wash (Denim)

Denim washed with pumice stones to abrade face — soft, vintage look.

Bio-Wash (Enzyme)

Cellulase enzyme treatment that removes surface hairiness and softens cotton.

Mercerising

Alkaline (NaOH) treatment of cotton under tension to increase lustre, strength and dye affinity.

Garment Dyeing

Dyeing after the garment is constructed, rather than the fabric.

Yarn Dyeing

Yarn is dyed before weaving/knitting — gives patterns like stripes, checks, chambray.

Piece Dyeing

Whole fabric roll dyed in jigger or jet machines.

Anti-Pilling Finish

Chemical or enzyme treatment that reduces pill formation on knits.

Water-Repellent (DWR)

Durable Water-Repellent treatment — C6 fluorocarbon (older) or C0 PFC-free (new).

Size India / SIZE India

India's first national anthropometric survey for garment sizing (launched 2018).

Body Measurement (Fit)

Key points measured on the body: bust, waist, hip, high-hip, neck, shoulder, arm length, inseam, thigh, rise, back-length.

Fit Sample (Stage)

Sample sewn on pattern block before production — worn on fit model or mannequin.

Fit Model

Person of the brand's sample size used to try every sample for fit assessment.

Era — Victorian (1837–1901)

Period of Queen Victoria — corsetry, crinoline, bustle, leg-of-mutton sleeves.

Era — Edwardian (1901–1910)

Reign of Edward VII — S-bend corsets, pigeon breast, Gibson Girl silhouette.

Era — 1920s Flapper

Post-WWI — drop-waist, bias-cut chemise dresses, cloche hats, bobbed hair.

Era — 1950s New Look

Dior's Bar Suit (1947) — rounded shoulders, cinched waist, full skirt.

Era — 1960s Mod

Space-age minimalism — shift dress, mini skirt, go-go boots.

Era — 1970s Bohemian

Ethnic prints, maxi dresses, bell-bottoms, kaftans, tie-dye.

Era — 1980s Power Dressing

Shoulder pads, big hair, bold colour.

Era — 1990s Minimalism / Grunge

Two poles: Calvin Klein minimalism vs Seattle grunge.

GOTS — Global Organic Textile Standard

Highest benchmark for organic textiles — covers fibre + chemistry + labour.

BCI — Better Cotton Initiative

Mass-balance programme training farmers in sustainable cotton practices.

Oeko-Tex Standard 100

Product-level certification that a textile is free of harmful chemicals.

bluesign®

System certifying textile manufacturers' use of safe chemistry, water, and energy.

Fairtrade Cotton

Fairtrade International mark for cotton farmers receiving minimum price + premium.

Catch Stitch

Crossed hand stitch used for hems in couture.

Basting Stitch

Long temporary stitch holding pieces before final stitching.

Stay Stitch

Single row of stitching just inside the seam line to prevent curve distortion.

Under-Stitching

Stitch through facing + seam allowance, invisible on outside, keeps facing inside.

Top-Stitching

Visible decorative stitching parallel to a seam.

Edge-Stitching

Top-stitching 1–2 mm from edge — very close.

Channel Stitch

Parallel stitch rows for quilting channels — used in puffer jackets.

Lace Stitch

Hand-joining stitch between lace motifs.

Hand Stitch — Sashiko

Japanese running-stitch reinforcement, geometric patterns.

Hand Stitch — Kasuti

Karnataka geometric embroidery (gavanthi, murgi, negi, menthi).

Hand Stitch — Shibori

Japanese resist-dye folding/binding technique.

Hand Stitch — Kashida / Kashmiri

Kashmir embroidery — crewel, sozni, tilla (zari), aari.

Hand Stitch — Mirror / Shisha

Reflective mirror discs anchored with decorative stitching.

Hand Stitch — Rabari

Kutch nomadic Rabari tribe embroidery — mirror + chain + herringbone.

Hand Stitch — Toda

Red-black-white geometric patterns of Toda tribe (Nilgiris).

Hand Stitch — Soof

Sindhi/Kutchi counted triangular embroidery.

Hand Stitch — Rogan

Painted cloth using castor-oil based paste, drawn with iron stylus.

Hand Stitch — Applique

Fabric patches stitched to ground cloth.

Hand Stitch — Parsi Gara

Chinese-influenced silk satin-stitch embroidery.

Hand Stitch — Lambani

Banjara tribe colourful mirror + shell embroidery.

Print — Sanganeri

Delicate floral block print on fine cotton, Jaipur.

Print — Dabu

Mud-resist block print; creates characteristic mottled white-on-indigo.

Print — Bagh

Block print from Bagh village, MP — red/black vegetable dyes.

Set-in Sleeve

Sleeve cut separately and stitched into armhole.

Raglan Sleeve

Sleeve extending to neckline in one piece.

Kimono Sleeve

Sleeve cut as one with bodice.

Dolman Sleeve

Deep armhole sleeve tapering to cuff.

Bishop Sleeve

Full long sleeve gathered at cuff.

Puff Sleeve

Cap or short sleeve gathered at top.

Cap Sleeve

Very short sleeve covering shoulder.

Placket

Finished opening allowing garment to be pulled over.

Yoke

Shaped piece at shoulder/back carrying gathered/pleated panel below.

Gusset

Small diamond/triangle of fabric added to reinforce or allow movement.

Fly Front (Zipper)

Placket concealing zipper in trousers.

Waistband

Band at the waist that finishes trouser/skirt top.

Collar — Point (Shirt)

Classic pointed dress-shirt collar.

Collar — Band

Collar without leaves — shirt collar stand only.

Collar — Mandarin (Stand)

Short upright collar with gap in front.

Collar — Peter Pan

Flat round collar for girls' dresses, vintage blouses.

Collar — Shawl

Continuous rolled collar with no notch — formal jacket, robe.

Collar — Notched

Classic men's jacket collar with a V-notch at lapel.

Cuff — Barrel

Single-thickness shirt cuff with 1–2 buttons.

Cuff — French

Double-length cuff folded back and secured by cufflinks.

Cuff — Ribbed

Knit rib band at sleeve end.

Hem — Rolled

Narrow hem 2–3 mm, used on sheers.

Hem — Double-fold

Two-fold hem (1/4" + 1/4" or 1/2" + 1/2").

Hem — Blind

Invisible hem by blind-hem stitch.

Pocket — Patch

Pocket stitched onto outside of garment.

Pocket — Welt

Pocket with a horizontal flap opening, pocket bag inside.

Pocket — Jet / Besom

Neat pocket with two narrow jet strips framing opening.

Pocket — Slant / On-seam

Pocket hidden in a seam, often curved slant.

Seam — Plain (Open)

Most common seam: sewn and pressed open.

Seam — Lap Seam

Two fabric edges lap and topstitched.

Seam — Mock Flat-Fell

Plain seam topstitched to mimic flat-fell.

Blouse — Peasant

Loose gathered neckline blouse with drawstring and puff sleeve.

Blouse — Shirtwaist

Tailored button-down blouse borrowing men's shirt construction.

Blouse — Halter

Strap ties behind neck, bare back.

Dress — Empire Line

High-waist seam just under bust.

Dress — Pinafore

Sleeveless apron-like dress with bib top.

Dress — Shirt Dress

Shirt extended to knee/calf length, belted.

Jacket — Blazer

Structured single-breasted jacket.

Jacket — Bolero

Short, cropped waist-level jacket.

Jacket — Kimono Robe

Loose open-front robe style inspired by kimono.

Jacket — Trucker (Denim)

Cropped denim jacket with chest pockets.

Coat — Trench

Water-resistant double-breasted long coat.

Coat — Peacoat

Short double-breasted navy wool coat.

Coat — Duffle

Hooded coat with toggle closures.

Skirt — Wrap Skirt

Front overlap skirt tied at waist.

Skirt — Sarong

Wrap-style unstitched or stitched skirt from SE Asia.

Shorts — Bermuda

Knee-length shorts.

Shorts — Hot Pants

Very short shorts above mid-thigh.

Saree Drape — Nivi

Most common modern saree drape.

Saree Drape — Nauvari

Maharashtrian 9-yard Brahmin drape, trouser-like at bottom.

Saree Drape — Bengali

Box pleats at front, pallu thrown twice over shoulder with keys.

Saree Drape — Coorgi

Back-pleat saree drape with pallu over right shoulder (unique).

Saree Drape — Gujarati (Seedha Pallu)

Pallu drawn to front over right shoulder.

Ghaghra / Chaniya

Full flared skirt worn in Rajasthan and Gujarat.

Angarkha

Mughal cross-over tunic secured at shoulder/chest with strings.

Nauvari

Maharashtrian 9-yard saree drape (kashta style).

Madras Check

Yarn-dyed cotton plaid from Chennai.

Tussar Print

Block print on tussar silk.

Begumpuri Saree

Handloom cotton saree from West Bengal, wide border.

Chanderi

Fine silk-cotton saree with gold/silver thread zari butis.

Maheshwari

Silk-cotton saree from Maheshwar, MP, reversible border.

Baluchari

Bengal silk saree with Mythological narrative motifs on pallu.

Paithani

Maharashtrian silk saree with peacock/lotus motifs.

Pochampally Saree

Telangana double-ikat saree.

Sambalpuri Saree

Odisha ikat saree.

Leheriya

Rajasthani tie-dye with diagonal wave stripes.

Bandhani

Gujarati/Rajasthani tie-dye with dot patterns.

Kasavu

Kerala cream-and-gold saree.

Godet

Godet — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Gore

Gore — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Pleat — Knife

Pleat — Knife — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Pleat — Box

Pleat — Box — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Pleat — Inverted

Pleat — Inverted — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Pleat — Accordion

Pleat — Accordion — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Pleat — Sunray

Pleat — Sunray — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Pleat — Kingussie

Pleat — Kingussie — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Shirring

Shirring — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Smocking

Smocking — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Tucks — Pin

Tucks — Pin — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Tucks — Released

Tucks — Released — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Appliqué

Appliqué — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Inset

Inset — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Binding

Binding — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Piping

Piping — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Cording

Cording — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Eyelet

Eyelet — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Grommet

Grommet — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Snap (Press Stud)

Snap (Press Stud) — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Hook & Bar

Hook & Bar — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Hook & Eye

Hook & Eye — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Velcro / Hook-and-Loop

Velcro / Hook-and-Loop — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Toggle

Toggle — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Frog Closure

Frog Closure — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Drawstring (Naada)

Drawstring (Naada) — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Mukesh Work

Mukesh Work — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Kamdani

Kamdani — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Nakshi Katha

Nakshi Katha — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Crewel Embroidery

Crewel Embroidery — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Goldwork

Goldwork — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Satin Stitch

Satin Stitch — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Stem Stitch

Stem Stitch — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Chain Stitch (Embroidery)

Chain Stitch (Embroidery) — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Herringbone Stitch

Herringbone Stitch — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Lazy Daisy

Lazy Daisy — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Cross Stitch

Cross Stitch — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Blanket Stitch

Blanket Stitch — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Pico Stitch

Pico Stitch — construction/embroidery term used in garment making.

Shirt — Dress

Buttoned collared shirt worn with tie/jacket — business formal.

Shirt — Oxford Button-Down

Oxford-cloth shirt with points buttoned to the body — prep / Ivy League signature.

Shirt — Hawaiian (Aloha)

Loose, short-sleeve shirt printed with tropical/island motifs.

Shirt — Henley

Round-neck knit shirt with short button placket, no collar.

Shirt — Flannel

Brushed plain- or twill-weave cotton shirt — warm winter casual.

Trouser — Chino

Twill cotton casual trousers — mid-weight, softer than jean.

Trouser — Khaki

Light tan cotton twill trouser of colonial / military origin.

Trouser — Cargo

Utility trouser with large thigh patch pockets and flaps.

Trouser — Corduroy

Trouser in pile weave fabric with distinctive vertical 'wales'.

Trouser — Dress

Formal tailored trouser in wool/wool-blend.

Jeans

Denim trouser — the most-produced garment in the world.

Shorts — Chino Shorts

Cotton-twill shorts, knee or mid-thigh.

Shorts — Board

Surf-friendly shorts made of quick-dry polyester.

Suit — Two-Piece

Jacket + trousers in matching fabric.

Suit — Three-Piece

Two-piece suit plus matching waistcoat (vest).

Tuxedo (Dinner Suit)

Black (or midnight blue) formal evening suit with satin lapels and stripe.

Tailcoat

Morning or evening formal coat with front cut away, long back tails.

Jacket — Harrington

Short, waist-length jacket with stand collar, button front, raglan sleeve.

Jacket — Bomber (MA-1)

Waist-length jacket with ribbed hem, cuff, collar.

Jacket — Varsity / Letterman

Two-tone jacket: wool body + leather sleeves, chenille letter on chest.

Jacket — Biker

Asymmetric zip leather jacket — 'perfecto'.

Jacket — Field

Utility jacket with multiple bellows pockets, heavy cotton.

Jacket — Safari / Bush

4-pocket tropical cotton jacket, belt at waist.

Overcoat

Full-length wool outercoat for winter.

Parka

Hip-to-knee hooded insulated coat.

Anorak

Pullover hooded jacket with half-zip or no front opening.

Gilet / Bodywarmer

Sleeveless insulated outerwear.

Sweater — Pullover

Knitted top pulled over the head.

Sweater — Cardigan

Knitted front-opening garment with buttons or zipper.

Hoodie

Pullover or zip-front top with hood.

Sweatshirt

Loose pullover in French terry or fleece.

Cardigan — Aran

Traditional Irish cable-knit cream sweater/cardigan.

Turtleneck / Polo-Neck

Knit top with tall folded collar covering neck.

Bra — Demi Cup

Half-cup bra covering bottom half of bust.

Bra — Push-Up

Angled-padded bra creating lifted, close-together cleavage.

Bra — Sports

High-support bra for athletic use.

Bra — Bralette

Soft unstructured bra, no underwire, pull-over.

Bra — T-Shirt / Moulded

Seamless moulded-cup bra — smooth under fitted shirts.

Bra — Plunge

Deep V-neckline bra with low centre gore.

Bra — Strapless

No shoulder straps — supported by band and silicone grip.

Panty — Brief (Hipster)

Full-coverage panty sitting on hips.

Panty — Thong

Minimal back coverage, T-shape strap between buttocks.

Panty — Boyshort

Short-style panty like boy's boxer briefs.

Panty — Tanga

Between bikini and thong — low side, moderate back.

Shapewear — Spanx

Body-smoothing compression wear under clothes.

Slip / Petticoat (Western)

Silk/polyester underdress worn beneath dress.

Stockings

Sheer hosiery for legs, ending at thigh.

Tights / Pantyhose

Full hosiery from waist to feet.

Camisole (Innerwear)

Short strappy innerwear top.

Boxer Short

Loose men's underwear, woven cotton.

Brief (Men)

Snug-fit Y-front knit underwear.

Boxer Brief (Trunk)

Mid-thigh knitted underwear — brief + boxer hybrid.

Vest (Innerwear) / Ganjee

Sleeveless men's undershirt — A-shirt or tank.

Onesie / Bodysuit

Baby garment covering torso with crotch snaps.

Sleepsuit (Footed)

Full-coverage infant sleepwear with closed feet.

Frock (Girl's Dress)

Girl's dress, often with bodice and gathered/flared skirt.

School Uniform — Pinafore / Tunic

Apron-style dress for school wear.

Christening / Baptism Gown

White full-length infant ceremonial gown.

Tracksuit

Matching jacket + trouser set for sport/casual.

Jogger Pants

Tapered ankle trouser with rib cuff.

Compression Tights

Tight-fit performance tights.

Cycling Shorts / Bib

Padded spandex shorts for road/mountain biking.

Yoga Pants

Stretch-fit pant for yoga/pilates.

Rash Guard

Lycra top for surf/swim preventing rash and UV.

Football / Soccer Jersey

Team jersey for football/soccer.

Cricket Trousers (Whites)

White cotton/polyester trouser for cricket.

Swim — Bikini

Two-piece women's swimsuit.

Swim — One-Piece

Full-coverage women's swimsuit.

Swim Trunk (Men)

Short shorts for men's swim.

Speedo / Jammers

Competitive swim brief/knee-length suit.

Boiler Suit / Coveralls

One-piece utility suit for workers.

Chef Coat / Jacket

Double-breasted jacket for professional chefs.

Lab Coat

Knee-length white coat for lab/medical.

Scrubs

Medical staff uniform — pants + top.

Hi-Vis Jacket

Fluorescent retroreflective safety jacket.

Overall / Dungaree

Bib-and-brace trousers with shoulder straps.

Apron

Protective garment covering front of body.

Uniform — Airline / Cabin Crew

Corporate identity garment for airline staff.

Uniform — School

Standard garment set for schools.

Uniform — Military (BDU / ACU)

Combat/service uniform.

Uniform — Cricket (Blue Jersey India)

National team playing kit.

Thobe / Thawb / Dishdasha

Ankle-length tunic worn by men in Arab world.

Jubba

Loose long robe / Islamic clerical garment.

Cassock

Long single-colour clerical garment for Christian clergy.

Alb

White liturgical tunic worn by Christian priests.

Hijab

Scarf worn by Muslim women covering hair and neck.

Niqab

Face veil covering all but eyes.

Burqa

Full-body covering with mesh over eyes.

Chador

Full-length outer cloak worn by Persian/Iranian women.

Turban — Pagri / Pag

Cloth wound around head — various South Asian styles.

Turban — Dastar (Sikh)

Religious turban mandated in Sikhism.

Yarmulke / Kippah

Brimless cap worn by observant Jewish men.

Kurta — Pathani

Longer version of kurta, worn with loose shalwar.

Mundu (Kerala)

South-Indian dhoti — single white cotton wrap.

Madisar Saree

Tamil Iyer 9-yard drape worn during rituals.

Kolhapuri Chappal

Handcrafted leather sandals from Kolhapur, Maharashtra.

Mojari / Jutti

Slip-on handcrafted shoes with curved toe — Punjab/Rajasthan.

Shoe — Oxford

Lace-up formal shoe with closed lacing.

Shoe — Derby / Blucher

Open-lacing lace-up shoe.

Shoe — Loafer

Slip-on laceless shoe.

Sneaker — Running

Soft-sole athletic shoe.

Ballet Flat

Low-heel shoe inspired by ballet slippers.

Tie (Necktie)

Long strip of fabric worn around neck under shirt collar.

Bow Tie

Small ribbon tied at collar — butterfly or batwing shape.

Pocket Square

Decorative square folded in jacket breast pocket.

Cufflink

Small decorative fastener for French cuffs.

Belt (Leather)

Strap around waist supporting trousers.

Suspenders / Braces

Elastic straps over shoulders holding trousers.

Cummerbund

Pleated sash worn at waist with tuxedo.

Dupatta Border — Kinari

Decorative edging on dupatta/kurta.

Scarf — Silk Square

Hand-rolled silk square (Hermès signature 90×90 cm).

Shoulder Pad

Foam/fibre pad inserted at shoulder for structure.

Sleeve Head / Head Roll

Wadded roll stitched into shoulder to smooth sleeve cap.

Canvas Interlining (Hymo / Hair Canvas)

Natural hair/wool canvas shaping tailored jacket fronts.

Horsehair Braid

Stiff braid sewn at skirt/dress hem for stand.

Lace — Chantilly

Fine handmade bobbin lace from Chantilly (France).

Lace — Leavers

Machine-made lace from Leavers loom, resembling hand-lace.

Lace — Raschel

Fast, machine-made warp-knit lace — lingerie volume.

Embroidery Sequin / Paillette

Small flat shiny discs attached for sparkle.

Bead — Glass (Rocaille)

Small glass beads — Czech or Japanese (Miyuki, Toho).

Rhinestone / Swarovski

Cut-glass or crystal gem adhered to garment.

Snap (Press Stud)

Two-part metal or plastic fastener that snaps together.

Eyelet / Grommet

Reinforced small hole for cord/shoelace.

Drawstring / Naada

Cord used to tighten waistband/hood.

Waist Elastic — Fold-Over

Wide elastic folded to form waistband directly.

Tool — French Curve

Template for drawing compound curves (armhole, neckline).

Tool — Hip Curve

Long curve ruler for side seams, hip/thigh curves.

Tool — L-Square / Right-Angle

Right-angle ruler for squaring corners.

Tool — Tracing Wheel

Wheel-on-handle used with carbon paper to transfer patterns.

Tool — Awl

Sharp pointed tool for marking and making holes.

Tool — Notcher

Handle tool that punches small notches in pattern edges.

Tool — Tailor's Chalk

Clay chalk for marking on fabric.

Tool — Pattern Weight

Heavy disc used to hold paper pattern on fabric.

Defect — Skipped Stitch

Gap in seam caused by needle not catching thread loop.

Defect — Seam Pucker

Rippling along seam line.

Defect — Seam Slippage

Yarns at seam pulling away under stress.

Defect — Pilling

Small fuzzy balls forming on fabric surface.

Defect — Colour Bleeding

Dye running during wash.

Defect — Shrinkage

Fabric contracting on washing.

Defect — Broken Stitch

Missing section in stitch line.

Test — Martindale Abrasion

Fabric rubbed in figure-8 to measure abrasion resistance.

Test — Pilling (ICI / Martindale)

Grade from 1 (severe pill) to 5 (no pill).

Test — Colour Fastness

Dye retention tested to washing, rubbing, light, perspiration.

Test — Tensile Strength

Force needed to break fabric along warp/weft.

Test — Tear Strength

Force to propagate tear through fabric.

Test — Seam Slippage

Force causing yarn slip at seam.

Test — Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage)

Measures fabric size change after home wash cycle.

Test — Flammability (16 CFR 1610)

US textile flammability requirement for clothing.

Tartan

Scottish wool plaid with specific clan setts registered in Scottish Tartans Authority.

Kilt

Knee-length pleated skirt of Scottish tartan.

Ankara / Dutch Wax Print

West African wax-resist cotton print.

Kente Cloth

Ghanaian strip-woven cloth, historically for royalty.

Kimono — Furisode

Long-sleeved kimono worn by unmarried women.

Kimono — Houmongi

Visiting-dress kimono, softer formal.

Yukata

Cotton summer kimono.

Hanfu

Han-Chinese historical robe revival.

Huipil (Mexican/Mayan)

Loose sleeveless woven tunic of indigenous Mexican/Mesoamerican women.

Rebozo

Long Mexican woven shawl.

Poncho

Rectangular hooded outer wrap.

Boro

Japanese indigo-dyed patchwork repaired cloth.

Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ)

Minimum factory run volume for economical production.

Lead Time

Time from order to shipment.

Tech Pack

Complete technical specification document for a style.

BOM (Bill of Materials)

List of all materials and components for a style.

Cost Sheet

Breakdown of FOB price into fabric + trims + labour + overhead + profit.

Grade A / Grade B (Fabric)

Mill fabric quality classification.

4-Point Inspection

Fabric defect grading: 1pt (≤3"), 2pt (3-6"), 3pt (6-9"), 4pt (>9").

GSD (General Sewing Data)

Time-motion database for sewing operations.

Rejection Rate / Alter Rate

% of garments needing rework or reject.

Wash — Acid

Chlorine-bleached denim giving high-contrast speckled fade.

Wash — Snow / Marble

Random light-dark mottled denim.

Wash — Laser Fade

Computer-controlled CO2 laser etches fade pattern.

Wash — Ozone

Ozone-gas treatment to bleach denim.

Wash — Cross-Hatching / Whiskers

Fade lines at hip creases and back knees.